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In Rolex history, the founding year, country and launch years seem to differ by source, so it is hard to know where to start. Rolex feels so Swiss that many are surprised it began in London.
This article traces founder Hans Wilsdorf, the origin of the name "ROLEX" and the birth of its classics in a timeline checked against Rolex's official account.
Rolex history | a watch brand born in London in 1905 that moved to Geneva
Rolex is a watch brand founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf that later moved to Geneva. It began as a watch distribution company and moved its base in 1919 to Geneva, a centre of watchmaking.
What followed was a story of fixing the wristwatch's weak points one by one: precision, waterproofing, self-winding and the date, then in the 1950s Professional models as tools for diving and exploration. Most of today's classics took shape by then.
Who founded Rolex? | Hans Wilsdorf and the origin of the name "ROLEX"
The founder of Rolex is Hans Wilsdorf. According to Rolex, in 1905, aged 24, he set up a watch distribution company in London. When wristwatches were seen as imprecise, he believed they could be reliable, and used small, precise movements from a maker in Bienne, Switzerland.
The name "ROLEX" was born in 1908. Wilsdorf said he made some hundred names from letter combinations, none quite right, until "Rolex" came to him on the upper deck of a horse-drawn bus in London.
In 1910 a Rolex was the first wristwatch to get the Swiss certificate of chronometric precision, and in 1914 a class "A" certificate from Kew Observatory.
Rolex history in a timeline | from the founding to the classics
Below, the years from the founding until the Professional models were complete, following the timeline on Rolex's official website.
Comparison table | Rolex history and key models
| Year | Event | Key models |
|---|---|---|
| 1905–1908 | Company founded in London; "ROLEX" named 1908 | ― |
| 1919 | Moved to Geneva; registered 1920 | ― |
| 1926–1927 | First waterproof, dustproof watch; Channel swim | Oyster |
| 1931 | Invented self-winding Perpetual rotor | Oyster Perpetual |
| 1945 | Self-winding chronometer, date window | Datejust |
| 1950s | Professional models born as tools; Day-Date 1956 | Explorer, Submariner, GMT-Master, Day-Date |
| 1960s–1990s | Racing, depths, poles, sailing | Daytona, Sea-Dweller, Explorer II, Yacht-Master |
On the timeline, the 1926 waterproofing and 1931 self-winding underlie almost every later model. That is why many dials read "OYSTER PERPETUAL": the Datejust and Submariner add functions to these two inventions.
The Oyster and the Perpetual | waterproofing and self-winding as Rolex's foundation
In 1926 Rolex completed the "Oyster", a waterproof and dustproof wristwatch. Its case is sealed to protect the movement, and the name is said to come from the way an oyster shuts tight.
In 1927, English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam the Channel wearing an Oyster; after over 10 hours it still ran perfectly. In 1933 the crew of the first flight over Everest wore Oysters, a bond with the sky that lives on in the Rolex Air-King, a tribute to aviators.
In 1931 Rolex invented and patented a self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. The rotor turns with the wrist to wind the mainspring; Rolex calls it the heart of modern automatics.
The 1945 Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer to show the date in a window, with its own Jubilee bracelet and a fluted bezel. The 1956 Day-Date was the first wristwatch to spell out the day in full beside the date, made only in 18 ct gold or platinum. For bracelets, see Rolex bracelets compared.
Rolex Professional models | classics from the 1950s on
In the 1950s Rolex began making "watches as tools" for diving, aviation, climbing and science, which it calls Professional models.
1. The 1950s | birth of the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master
In 1953 the expedition that first climbed Everest carried Oyster Perpetual watches. The Explorer was born that same year from the experience; its story is in the Rolex Explorer I.
The Submariner of the same year was the first divers' watch waterproof to 100 m, with a rotatable bezel to read dive time. The 1955 GMT-Master served professionals flying across time zones, known by its two-colour day/night bezel. For bezel roles, see Rolex bezel types.
2. The 1960s–1990s | the Daytona, Sea-Dweller and Yacht-Master
The 1963 Cosmograph, later known as the Daytona, was a chronograph for endurance racing with a tachymetric scale on the bezel for average speed. The 1967 Sea-Dweller has a valve that releases helium from the case during decompression.
In 1971 the Explorer II, with a 24-hour hand, was added for poles and caves where day and night blur. The Yacht-Master followed in 1992. Each took its shape as a working tool, and that shape remains the face of today's classics.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 | a classic whose name holds two inventions
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 lavender
The Oyster Perpetual carries the waterproof Oyster and self-winding Perpetual in its name: the basic form of Rolex. With no date or graduated bezel, it is just a smooth domed bezel and an Oyster bracelet. This 126000 has a lavender dial, its baton indexes framing the soft colour.
All steel, it suits a white shirt or smart knit as well as denim or a sweatshirt. The pale purple dial stays quiet even under a suit cuff. For anyone who wants Rolex's starting point in one watch, or likes a clean, dateless face.
Before buying a pre-owned Rolex: 3 points to know
✓ Check the generation and specs by reference
Even under one model name, the case, bracelet and movement change by reference. First, use the reference number to identify its generation. Dial differences are also covered in choosing a Rolex dial.
✓ Look at the full set of papers and box
Accessories are clues to when the watch was sold. Check the warranty card and its details, plus the box and tags, against the product page text and photos.
✓ Do not judge authenticity by one feature
Judging authenticity by one feature, such as engravings, dial print or bracelet build, is risky. Look at several together, and finally at the seller's authentication and after-sales support.
FAQ
Q. Who founded Rolex, and which country is it from?
A. Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf. It began in London, England, but is based in Geneva, Switzerland, where it moved in 1919.
Q. What does the name "ROLEX" mean?
A. Rolex's official history page does not explain what "ROLEX" means. One theory traces it to French, but Rolex does not mention it; the founder said the name simply came to him.
Q. Who owns Rolex today?
A. Rolex is not publicly listed and is said to be owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, set up by its founder.
Q. When did the Oyster appear, and how does it differ from the Oyster Perpetual?
A. The Oyster names the 1926 waterproof, dustproof watch and its case; the Perpetual names the 1931 self-winding mechanism. A watch with both is called an Oyster Perpetual, and most models today build on the two.
Summary
Rolex history reads as a watch distribution company from London moving to Geneva and, on the foundation of the waterproof Oyster and the self-winding Perpetual, growing into the Datejust and the Professional models.
To choose, see where your model sits on the timeline, narrow the generation by reference, then check accessories and condition in the photos. The model that most simply reflects where the story began is the Oyster Perpetual.
At ALAMODE, we carry a wide range of popular Rolex items, including the Oyster Perpetual. Each item is listed with its own photos and details, so you can choose while checking condition and design. If you are looking for something special, please visit our online shop.
View the Oyster Perpetual product list
Where to Buy Rolex in Shibuya
Tokyo Brand produce by ALAMODE Shibuya Main
1F Saint Louis Building, 26-3 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0042
Hours: 12:30–21:00 (Closed: January 1)
TEL: 03-5990-4745
Tokyo Brand produce by ALAMODE Shibuya 109
Tamakyu Building 1F, 2-30-4 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0043
Hours: 12:30–21:00 (Closed: January 1)
TEL: 03-6712-7331
