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When you start looking for a pre-owned Hermès wallet, you'll first be stumped by the names: Bearn, Dogon, Azap, Silk'in, Kelly Wallet. A list of names appears, overlaid with size designations like compact and long.
The four types are distinguished by the shape of their clasps and their storage philosophy. We will organize the official names and size designations, and compare the actual measurements, storage capacity, and estimated pre-owned market prices of the featured items. All figures are as of September 2026.
Choose Bearn for the clasp, Dogon for storage capacity, Azap for slimness, and Kelly Wallet for hardware
Hermès wallets are divided into the Bearn, which fastens with an H-shaped clasp; the Dogon, which fastens with a snap; the Azap, which closes with a zipper; and the Kelly Wallet, which fastens with the same sangles and twist lock as the Kelly bag. Since different clasps mean different opening methods and storage arrangements, it's faster to narrow down your choice here before considering aesthetic preferences.
Among the items measured, the smallest Bearn card case is 8.0cm wide, and the largest Dogon Long is 20.5cm wide. The gussets range from 1.0 to 3.6cm, making this a category where you choose based on surface area rather than thickness. The types of leather are also mentioned in Understanding Hermès Bag Materials.
Official Names and Size Designations | Bearn, Dogon, Azap, Kelly Wallet
The Béarn is a bifold wallet named after a region in southwestern France. Size designations include Card Case, Mini, Compact, Soufflet, and Combiné. Soufflet, meaning "puff," refers to a wider, elongated shape with gussets.
The Dogon is an elongated wallet named after an ethnic group in Mali. Size designations include GM, Long, Duo, Verso, and Card Case.
The Azap is a round zip-around style. Size designations include Long Classique, Compact, and Mini.
The Kelly Wallet is a style that incorporates the clasp of the Kelly bag into a wallet. Size designations include Long, To Go, Medium Verso, and Ghillies. The To Go comes with a shoulder strap, allowing it to be carried as a small bag.
View Hermès Leather Goods Product List
Differences Between the Four Types | Actual Measurements, Storage, Intended Use, and Price Range
The items are listed with their actual measured values. As there are individual differences even with the same designation, a range is provided.
Comparison Table | What's Different About the Four Types?
| Comparison Item | Bearn | Dogon | Azap / Silk'in | Kelly Wallet |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clasp | Belt through H-shaped hardware | Leather tab and round snap | Zipper around the perimeter | Two sangles and a twist lock |
| Actual size (W×H) | 10.2–17.5×6.0–10.0cm Compact 12.0×9.0–10.0cm |
10.5–20.5×7.5–13.0cm Long 20.5×10.5–11.0cm |
Long 20.0×10.0–11.0cm Compact 8.0–11.0cm wide |
Long 20.0×11.5–12.0cm To Go approx. 20.5×11.5cm |
| Bill Compartment / Card Slots | 1 / 1–5 (Compact 4, Soufflet 5) | 2 / 1–8 (Long 8) 1 coin purse on the outside |
1–2 / 4–12 (Long 12) | 2 / 4–12 (Long 12, To Go 4) |
| Intended Use | To put in a small bag | Separate bills, cards, and coins | Prioritize security of contents. Also for men. | Go out with just the wallet |
| Estimated Pre-owned Price Range (as of Sept. 2026) | Approx. ¥90,000–¥440,000 | Approx. ¥50,000–¥290,000 | Approx. ¥70,000–¥230,000 | Long approx. ¥290,000–¥330,000 To Go approx. ¥770,000–¥1,210,000 |
| Recommended For | Those who want to choose by clasp shape | Those who carry around 8 cards | Prioritize peace of mind with opening/closing | Those who use Kelly hardware daily |
The range of market prices depends on the material and size designation. The upper limit for Bearn is extended by exotic leather pieces. The reason why the Kelly Wallet has a price difference of almost threefold is because the To Go comes with a shoulder strap and can also be used as a bag. The Azap and Kelly Wallet Long hold the most cards, with 12 slots.
Exploring the Four Types | Clasp, Storage, Lining, and Hardware
Bearn Compact | Opening and Closing the H-Clasp Daily
Hermès Bearn Compact Veau Epsom Black Palladium Hardware
The defining feature of the Bearn is the H-shaped hardware on the front. A leather strap, coming from above, passes through the bar of the hardware, and its tip is inserted to fasten it. The hardware itself functions as the clasp.
Veau Epsom is a firm, embossed leather that maintains its sharp edges. It's suitable for those who enjoy the process of threading the belt.
Dogon Long | Carrying Bills and Coins Separately
Hermès Dogon Long Togo Rose Candy Palladium Hardware
The Dogon is constructed from a long piece of folded leather, secured by a leather tab and a round snap clasp. It is the only one of the four types that has an external zippered coin purse, allowing you to access coins without opening the main wallet.
Togo leather has a prominent large grain texture, which helps to hide scratches. It's important to check the base of the tab and the edges, as they can wear thin.
Azap Long Silk'in | Choosing by Interior Pattern
Hermès Azap Long Silk'in Veau Epsom Terre Battue
The Azap closes with a zipper that runs around its perimeter. Since there's no stopping point, contents won't fall out, and many card slots can be stacked. The Silk'in version features a silk lining, with a plain leather exterior and a colorful patterned interior.
If the exterior is orange, the combination with the interior pattern makes it a unique item. The slider's movement and the base of the pull should be checked on the actual item.
Kelly Wallet To Go | Carrying Hardware with You
Hermès Kelly Wallet To Go Veau Epsom Black Palladium Hardware
The Kelly Wallet incorporates the clasp of the Kelly bag into a wallet. It closes by looping two sangles over the central twist lock and turning the hardware. The opening procedure is the same as for the bag.
The To Go can be used as a wallet when the strap is removed, or as a small bag when attached. As stress is applied to the base of the hardware, it's advisable to check the condition of the sangles and the edges for cracks beforehand.
4 Key Points to Consider Before Buying a Pre-owned Hermès Wallet
✓ Decide on the type based on the number of cards
The first thing to decide is the storage capacity. If you carry around 10 cards, the Azap or Kelly Wallet Long would fit; for about 8 cards, the Dogon Long; and for 4-5 cards, the Bearn or To Go would be suitable.
✓ Check the condition of the clasp by opening and closing it
For Bearn and Dogon, the leather is part of the clasp, so the area around the hole and the base of the tab may stretch. For Azap, the stress is on the zipper slider, and for Kelly Wallet, it's on the sangles.
✓ Examine the condition of the edges and corners
The edge paint (Koba) on the leather's cross-section is often the first part of a wallet to show wear. While approximately 80% of pre-owned items are rated as good condition (as of September 2026), there are differences in how well the Koba is preserved even with the same rating.
✓ Do not determine authenticity solely by the stamp
Stamps provide clues to the manufacturing year, with W, U, and B being common among featured items. However, it is risky to determine authenticity based on a single element. It is important to examine multiple points, such as checking stamps, materials, stitching, and hardware, and to consider the retailer's appraisal system and post-purchase support for a final decision.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. What is the difference between the Kelly Wallet Long and To Go?
A. The To Go comes with a shoulder strap and has a thicker gusset. The gusset of the featured items is 1.8-2.3cm for the Long and 2.5-3.6cm for the To Go, with the pre-owned market price difference being nearly threefold.
Q. Are the Azap and Azap Silk'in different models?
A. They are the same Azap model, but the Silk'in has a silk lining. The exterior leather and clasp are the same, but the appearance when opened and the pre-owned market price differ.
Q. Which type is suitable for men?
A. The Azap Long Classique, with less ornamentation, and the Dogon with a plain interior, tend to be popular choices. The Bearn and Kelly Wallet, with their exposed hardware, are more a matter of personal preference.
Summary | Choosing a Wallet by Clasp Reduces Confusion
The Bearn is a bifold with an H-clasp and a belt; the Dogon is an elongated wallet with a snap closure and an external coin purse; the Azap is a round zip-around; and the Kelly Wallet is an elongated wallet with sangles and a twist lock. The Silk'in is an Azap with a different lining.
It's fastest to narrow down the type based on the number of cards you carry and then check the width to ensure it fits in your bag. In the pre-owned market, clasps and edges vary, so it's best to read descriptions and compare photos before making a decision.
ALAMODE lists Hermès wallets with actual measurements and photos for each item. Please check the condition of the actual items.
Where to Buy Hermès in Shibuya
ORANGE BOUTIQUE Shibuya
1F Saint Louis Building, 26-3 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0042
Hours: 12:30–21:00 (Closed: January 1)
TEL: 03-5990-4745
Where to Buy Hermès in Aoyama & Omotesando
ORANGE BOUTIQUE Aoyama
HOLON-R 1F, 3-12-12 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0061
Hours: 11:30–20:00 (Closed: January 1)
TEL: 03-4330-0779
